What do you do when you open up a European pattern for the first time? I'll admit, the first patterns I saw made this way were by Farbenmix and studioTANTRUM: Redondo – not too crazy and Zuma (a very easy trace) Paula; that was a little more intimidating, Olivia; more so. Then came OTTOBRE design. My eye popped completely out of my head! While I did appreciate the color coding, I think the first thing I said was "What the hell am I supposed to do with this?" I know I am not alone because I get emails on a regular basis asking me the same thing about this pattern or that one. So I thought I'd take a minute and put my thoughts on the subject 'out there'.
First if you've picked up a pattern that looks too tricky. Take out your handy dandy, trusty finger and find your line and follow it through; this is going to help you get a feel for where the line is going and to follow the right line when you are tracing. You might even want to consider getting a set of colored pens and do all one size one color or each pattern piece a different color.
What to trace onto? I use an interfacing product from Joann's, called patternease. It's about $1 per yard when they have their frequent 50% off sales. I like it because it's sturdy so it holds up to lots of use, it's transparent enough that tracing is easy and it drapes pretty well for mock fittings. Swedish Tracing Paper is a popular choice, freezer paper and tissue paper are also popular mediums.
How to add seam allowances: again, there are lots of choices. I find that a pencil and a pen rubber banded together work just about right for my serging seam allowance needs. I've heard of a cool olfa diddy that you can adjust to your preferred SA of the moment. In this case you would trace your pattern as is and then when your cutting out your fabric with your rotary cutter you get your SA addition like magic. **I really need to get one of these and give it a try** The very 'manual' and precise way would be to go along your pattern line with a ruler and a pen making the new cutting line.
Adding seam allowances: I add a seam allowance everywhere except the "fold" line and often the waistband or some other piece will say it doesn't need one. Otherwise if i sew the edge I figure it needs a SA. Now, I know there is debate on this one like "what about hems" while I know it's maybe not technically a seam; in that 2 different pieces of fabric are joining to become one, I think that I am sewing it, and folding it up, and I'd rather error on the side of getting to cut a little off or fold up a little more than end up too short. In fact I ususally add an inch or more for the hem so I'm able to give it a nice finished edge.
Do you still have questions or do you have another way of doing these things? I'd love to hear from you! -C
Post Script: I don't pin my tracing medium to the pattern I use "weights", which are just tuna cans or whatever handy heavy thing I can easily access. Large nuts from the hardware store would also work nicely.
I trace all of my patterns using a roll of thin tracing paper I found at a local art store. It’s about 24″ wide and it’s fantastic! I am able to erase any errors, it cuts beautifully and pins well to fabric. I’m not sure exactly how long each roll is but it goes on for a very long time!
The price for this paper is about $16 and I think you can also find it at AC Moore for around the same price!
I live in Germany. I see you can add seam allowances when cutting or tracing. So far I’ve tried when tracing.
I have a special set from Burda that I’ve used only one time so far. It is a package of satin-y clear plastic sheets and a pen with an eraser nubbin on the cap. It is called a Kopierset/Reprokit/Tracing set. It is very durable and plenty of it. The package says you can easily tape it together to test the fit. It cost about 8 Euros. It basically makes very durable templates.
I did not pin it, I used weights when I traced. I then rough cut the pattern pieces and tried to cut the pattern and the fabric together. I think this was a mistake. The plastic and the fabric twist and move differently. Next time I will cut the plastic pattern templates alone with a wheel cutter, then use weights and wheel to cut the fabric. (I hate pins.)
A fabric store owner here told me, regarding seam allowances, that being really straight is not really important and that your eye makes up for imperfections.
I have a tool for my wheel that guages the seam allowance. I don’t think it’s too hot. I’m going to try the suggestion above about banding together a pencil and a pen when I make the initial trace.
It’s also possible, I’m told, to use a transfer wheel and chalk paper — the prick wheel kind with colored paper. Use it directly from the big multi-pattern sheet. Add seam allowance when cutting.